2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 22:24
- A new kind of flooring - liquid wood
- Advantages of liquid wood over stone
- Choosing a board from (WPC)
- The difference between decking models by profile type
- Surface difference
- Difference by type of connection
- Features of mounting composite decking boards
- The order of behavior of installation work on laying decking
- Four main rules of installation
- Laying support logs TERRAPOL
- Laying and fixing decking
- Finishing the edges of the deck and steps
- Decking board care
- We recommend that you clean the dirt immediately
Quite often, an original and easy-to-install, relatively new universal finishing material (WPC) is used for the construction of gazebos, platforms, footpaths on the site. This material imitates the natural structure of wood and the finished structures look pretty good. Installation of polymer composite lamellas is not very difficult even when doing work with your own hands.
A new kind of flooring - liquid wood
If you would like to create a bridge over a stream or paths in a garden, to cover a pool or on a terrace, please see the full information on the newest finishing material - composite decking.
This is a new generation coating made from a mixture of plastic (polypropylene) and wood flour by extrusion. Composite decking can be used for any finishing work: both interior and finishing. A significant part of the composite is crushed wood (about 60-80%, depending on the manufacturer).
The rest is replenished with additives such as: pigments, polyethylene, UV stabilizers and others.
This material also has other names: WPC (wood-polymer composite), liquid wood, WPC (wood-polymer composite). The use of composite boards is very wide. It can be used to decorate terraces, stairs, gazebos, paths, piers, playgrounds, patios, pools, balconies, etc.
For example, the company "GOS DPK" is a narrow-profile enterprise specializing in the supply of decking made of WPC and assembling composite structures. This material is not just an alternative to other coatings, it is the best solution for decorating semi-open areas, recreation areas, and facade structures.
But the majority, in the old-fashioned way, prefers to use wooden coverings for terraces and recreation areas near the pools, as well as tiles, wood and stone for stairs, bridges, garden paths. They are guided by the idea that the use of plastic is not sustainable, unlike the use of natural wood and stone. But these days, polymers are everywhere, from dishes and toothbrushes to household appliances and other products we use every day.
Consider the advantages of composite decking over wood. Liquid wood is resistant to UV rays, mechanical and biological (bacteria, fungus, rodents, insects) influences, all kinds of detergents. The composite board is not subject to deformation and is able to withstand significant temperature drops (from -60 to +80 ° C, depending on the model and manufacturer). The service life of this material is more than 10 years, and in some cases up to 50 years.
Advantages of liquid wood over stone
Wood-polymer composite is simple and easy to install and disassemble, it has additional elements (support beams, logs, clamps, curbs, etc.). Unlike stone, composite decking has a non-slippery surface and is pleasant to the touch. At the moment, on the market of building and finishing materials, one can find composite decking boards from such manufacturers as: Finland, Germany, Canada, Belgium, Russia, China.
The average cost is in the range of 1500-3400 rubles. per sq. m.
Positive aspects (WPC) and its characteristics:
- environmentally friendly material, easy to process, resistant to mechanical damage;
- quite easy to maintain and does not need finishing;
- not subject to decay, perfectly tolerates changes in high temperature and humidity;
- (WPC) is durable, service life is not less than 30–35 years;
- typical dimensions of lamellas: length - 1500–6000 mm, width - 135–145 mm, thickness - 22–28 mm.;
- load per square meter - about 800 kg / m2;
- the negative sides include the flammability of the material.
Choosing a board from (WPC)
When choosing a material, you should pay attention to its composition. The main components are: wood flour, pigments and stabilizers, fillers and polymers. If the percentage of wood flour is about 70%, then such a material is not so durable, does not work well with moisture. The truth has an excellent look, it is difficult to distinguish from natural wood. A universal material can be considered the ratio of wood flour to the rest of the 50/50%. This composite is more durable, the structure of the wood is externally preserved. If the proportion of wood flour is less than 40% in the composition of the material, then such a wood-polymer board hardly differs from plastic in its properties and does not have such a good appearance. Only quite durable and unpretentious in operation.
The main point when choosing is what type of polymer was used in the production of the material. If polypropylene, polyethylene was used, then the surface will slide when walking. At high air temperatures, the sipes can be damaged by the heels of the shoes. It is not a wear resistant material. The only plus is the low cost. When used in a material of polyvinyl chloride, its properties are significantly improved. The surface, even wet, does not slip when walking, does not fade in the sun, the material is not very flammable.
This type is good for decking and platforms near the pool, pier.
More durable look, recommended for all surfaces. By their structure, polymer boards can be hollow or solid. Corpulent is best used for outdoor work on the arrangement of sites, in a garage or workshop. There is a frequent possibility of mechanical damage to the surface. Hollow ones are great for arranging the floors of verandas, gazebos. There, the floor loads are not very high.
The difference between decking models by profile type
Decking Hollow
Hollow - for all types of terraces with low, medium and high traffic, used in cottages, restaurants and cafes. Example: Deckron decking
Decking Full-bodied
Corpulent - designed for high loads and difficult climatic conditions, used in areas with high traffic, piers and piers. Example: Solid Holzhof board.
Surface difference
Decking embossed wood
Wood embossing - knurling imitating a cut of wood. The downside is low wear resistance. The usual embossing disappears after about a year. More wear resistant only embossing with deep extrusion (3-D) or with co-extrusion.
Deck grinding
Sanding - anti-slip treatment (classic corduroy). The most common option.
Difference by type of connection
Suture - the board is connected using a kleimer (metal or plastic). This is the best way to attach your board. During operation, a WPC board either expands or narrows when the temperature changes. Due to the cleats, the board has free play when expanding or narrowing. Different types of cleats provide a gap between the planks of 2 to 5 mm, which ensures good ventilation under the deck.
Seamless - the board is connected by a spike into a groove.
Features of installation: it is necessary to provide good ventilation of the sub-floor space; you can use only the panel method of laying; the log must have free play under the deck (“floating log” method). Due to the absence of gaps between the boards, moisture evaporates poorly and if good ventilation is not provided, the terrace flooring will eventually deteriorate.
Since most regions of our country have cold winters and hot summers (large temperature drops), we do not recommend using a seamless type of board.
Features of mounting composite decking boards
The construction of composite boards is a hollow profile inside. Both sides have the same color, but different grooves, so either side can be used as the front. Planks must be laid on the support beams. Both composite beams purchased with the board and wooden beams (logs) are suitable. Deckron Installation Instruction
The disadvantage of composite support beams is that they are used exclusively on a flat, solid foundation that has a drain. Fastening the composite board to the support beams is carried out as follows. First, the outer edge of the first board is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees. Then special clamps are installed on the inside of the board, and the next board is inserted under the edge of each clamp. In the end, the outer edge of the last board is fixed with self-tapping screws. To give the coating a finished look, you can install side overhead strips, which are also fastened with self-tapping screws. Taking care of a liquid tree is quite simple. Common dirt can be easily removed with a brush, soap and hot water. And the ice will melt calcium chloride if necessary, after which the surface should be rinsed with water.
The order of behavior of installation work on laying decking
Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of the base before starting work on laying the decking.
The basis for the flooring can be:
• concrete screed
• sand and gravel cushion with paving slabs laying on it
• supporting beams made of concrete, wood or metal.
The base must be strong, level, sloping and frost-resistant.
Prevent standing water from accumulating under the deck.
If necessary, lay a film (geotextile, bitumen carpet) to prevent weed growth.
To drain rain and melt water in the case of a concrete screed, it is recommended to do a
Four main rules of installation
It is necessary to comply with the norms when laying
decking: 1) it is necessary to ensure sufficient air circulation under the flooring.
2) do not allow direct contact of structural elements with the ground or grass;
3) it is imperative to take into account the expansion along the length and width of all structural elements due to the
temperature and humidity difference during operation.
4) Laying is carried out at an air temperature of at least +1 C. О
The basis for the flooring can be:
• concrete screed
• sand and gravel pad with paving slabs laying on it
• supporting beams made of concrete, wood or metal.
The base must be strong, even, sloping and frost-resistant.
Prevent standing water from accumulating under the deck.
If necessary, lay a film (geotextile, bitumen carpet) to prevent weed growth.
For the drainage of rain and melt water in the case of a concrete screed, it is recommended to make slopes from static structures
or drainage in all other cases. The slope is 1 cm per linear meter.
Laying support logs TERRAPOL
The lag is a support, not a load-bearing element. Therefore, the log should lie with the entire lower surface on the
base (concrete screed, paving slabs, etc.).
The log is fastened to the base using a self-tapping screw or a dowel-nail only in one place, in the middle of the
log, after having drilled holes with a 3 mm drill.
If the deck is located in an open space where strong winds are possible, it is recommended to use
an additional lag fastening with a perforated mounting tape. In this case, the mounting tape is attached ONLY to the
base.
If a decorative strip is used for the finishing of the ends, then the extreme lag is laid according to the section
"Finishing of the edges of the flooring and steps" (Fig. No. 2).
To ensure the flow of rain and melt water, logs are laid along the direction of the water flow.
Support logs should not be in the water.
To ensure proper ventilation of the terrace, TERRAPOL WPC decking is laid on TERRAPOL logs with
dimensions 50x35x4000 mm, which are also made of WPC.
The interval of laying the lags is not more than 400 mm.
At high loads on the decking, the interval for laying the lags must be reduced.
Between the logs and all static stationary objects (walls, curbs, supports, pillars, etc.), expansion gaps of at least 20 mm must be left.
At the junction of the ends of the terrace boards, it is necessary to lay two parallel support beams at a distance of 50 mm
apart. That is, the edge of each board rests on its own log. In this case, the overhang of the board is no more than 2 mm.
Laying and fixing decking
The decking is laid on the support joists.
Terrace board TERRAPOL has two working sides (double-sided).
Terrace boards have a direction arrow. The arrow is visible from the end of the board To obtain a uniform
color of the flooring, the boards are laid with an arrow in one direction. To create combinations of flooring shades, the boards
are stacked randomly with arrows in different directions.
Planks should be laid from the wall or other fixed structures, leaving gaps of at least 20 mm.
Two types of stainless steel clips are used for mounting the boards to the joists: starting and fastening. The beginning and the
end of the installation is carried out with starter clips, pre-drilling holes
The fastening clips provide a 5 mm longitudinal gap between the boards. The clips are inserted into the groove of the board and fastened with
3.5x25 stainless steel self-tapping screws into the groove in the center of the log. Self-tapping screws have special notches, they are
screwed without preliminary drilling with the minimum
required force installed on the screwdriver.
Boards must be attached to each support point on logs.
Boards are mounted in a "runaway" position, with the joints offset by at least 1/3 of the board length. A piece of the board must be
at least 80 cm long, and lie on 3 logs. In this case, it is necessary to leave a gap between the ends of the boards, according to the
table, to ensure the drainage of rain and melt water and to compensate for thermal expansion. The ends of the boards
must necessarily lie on the logs and be attached to them with clips and a 3 mm drill.
Finishing the edges of the deck and steps
A decorative strip 58x10x3000 mm is used for finishing the edges of the flooring.
Longitudinal edge of the flooring - the side on which the side of the board is located. When finishing the longitudinal edge of the
flooring, it is necessary to leave a gap between the side of the board and the decorative strip at least 3 mm.
End edge of the flooring - the side on which the ends of the boards are located. When finishing the end edge of the flooring, it is necessary to leave a gap between the ends of the board and the decorative strip at least 6 mm
When finishing the edges of the flooring and the edges of the steps with a strap, it is necessary to fix it to the log with 3.5x25
stainless steel self-tapping screws every 30 - 40 cm. With
end and corner joints of corners and decorative strips, a gap of at least 5 mm is
required, which is necessary for thermal expansion
Decking board care
Read this to avoid the most common mistakes
• 1 cm / 1 lm sub-slope or drainage.
• The logs should lie with their entire bottom surface on the base.
• A gap of 20 mm between the ends of the log.
• A gap of 20 mm when laying boards or joists against a wall or other obstacle.
• Gap from 6 to 12 mm between the ends of the boards, according to the table.
• If during installation you used wedges between boards and walls, do not forget to remove them.
• Boards are mounted in a "runaway" offset by 1/3 of the length.
• At end joints, the edge of each board should lie on its own log and be attached to it with a clip.
• A minimum force of the screwdriver is sufficient when tightening the screws.
• It is not allowed to place heavy objects on the surface of the decking board for a long time, as this
may impede linear expansion.
Terrace board Terrapol does not need special care, varnishing and painting.
Decking Terrapol should be periodically washed with clean water using a brush and non-aggressive detergents
(acid-free). When choosing a detergent, first test on a small surface of the
board. In case of stubborn dirt, we recommend using a high water pressure (Karcher mini washers, etc.).
We recommend that you clean the dirt immediately
Wine, soda, juice and ketchup stains can be removed with clean water.
Oil, mayonnaise and chocolate stains are removed with a grease-removing detergent.
The stain must be rubbed thoroughly, and then the entire coating must be rinsed with plenty of water.
If a burning cigarette or coal hits the surface of the board, a dark stain will remain, which can be removed with
a metal brush.
A decorative strip 58x10x3000 mm is used for finishing the edges of the flooring.
Longitudinal edge of the flooring - the side on which the side of the board is located. When finishing the longitudinal edge of the
flooring, it is necessary to leave a gap between the side of the board and the decorative strip at least 3 mm
End edge of the flooring - the side on which the ends of the boards are located. When finishing the end edge of the flooring, it is necessary to leave a gap between the ends of the board and the decorative strip of at least 6
mm. When finishing the edges of the flooring and the edges of the steps with a strip, it is necessary to fix it to the log with 3.5x25
stainless steel self-tapping screws every 30 - 40 cm
For end and corner joints of corners and decorative strips, a gap of at least 5 mm is
required for thermal expansion.
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