2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54
- What do we expect from a plasterboard ceiling?
- Things to Consider When Planning Each Level
- Two ways to assemble two levels of the ceiling frame. Which to choose?
- We collect the frame of the future ceiling. Tools and materials
- Plasterboard installation: easy and difficult at the same time
- Spotlights and neon - choose lighting options
To date, the Internet is littered with articles and videos on the topic: "How to make a two-level ceiling from plasterboard with lighting." Naturally, without the invitation of expensive designers, teams and just craftsmen. How to "separate the wheat from the chaff", how to find a plan for working with drywall, which is both good and practical, and gives at least some kind of guarantee?
What do we expect from a plasterboard ceiling?
What is the main expectation of a false ceiling frame? Reliability and long-term service without movement and deformation. Then there will be no cracks in the ceiling from the gypsum board and you will not have to deal with their unplanned correction. But the more repair sites appear, the more "misunderstandings" you can find. Let us examine only a small part of the absurdity about the "correct" installation of the ceiling from the gypsum board, taking, for example, a photo with a caption under it:
The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive base, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits sounds less.
Firstly, the plasterboard ceiling frame is NEVER assembled from a ceiling track profile (RSP). The only exception is its use in curvilinear structures, and then this is only the know-how of Russian craftsmen. The photo shows exactly the guide profile 28x27 mm, since the sealing tape 30 mm wide covers it completely.
Secondly, it is not for nothing that the ceiling made of plasterboard is called suspended - its frame should not fit snugly against the concrete! Direct suspensions adjoin the concrete, but no one will confuse them with a section of the profile, as in the photo. But rarely does anyone stick a damper tape on these suspensions. But in vain …
If the author had in mind the walls to which the ceiling guide profiles are attached, then this is not the frame itself, but only the frame for the frame. And the walls are rarely made of concrete by normal people.
You can, of course, challenge the above. But for people not only doing, but also thinking, there is a reason to check the information that is found on the Internet. But the correct application of the sealing tape will only benefit your ceiling.
The conclusion is simple: if you want to get a beautiful and durable two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting, do it yourself. Examine photos and videos, read several sites about this, make a rough plan of action. Then look at it from the height of your experience, estimate the strengths and possibilities. And go to buy materials and components. Find out about beautiful options for lighting ceilings with LED strip.
Things to Consider When Planning Each Level
What should be the starting point when building a ceiling level diagram? It is clear that the more complex the lines of the second level, the more difficult it is to calculate the material consumption. Therefore, it is worth first considering how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the perimeter of the entire room. This option is not the most sophisticated, but with the right lighting and lighting it will be a source of pride for more than one year. At the same time, it is worth thinking about lighting a niche for attaching a curtain rod. In the photo below there is a box around the perimeter of the room with spotlights of the second level, neon illumination of the transition between the levels of the ceiling and central lighting (not visible in the photo)
Based on this photo, you can plan all the operations, knowing only approximately the size of the room:
- The width of the first level, closest to the ceiling, should be planned as a multiple of 1.2. This is the standard width of the gypsum sheet, and it makes little sense to sculpt small inserts from the edge. It is better to lay 2-3 rows of whole sheets of plasterboard.
- Divide the remaining distance to the walls by 2 and get the size of the second level of the ceiling. If the height of the old ceiling does not exceed 2.5 m, the box of the second level should be made narrower so that there is no “pressing” effect.
- Plan the place under the niche in front of the window so that it is possible to work in it with a screwdriver. By the way, the screw also has a length, albeit small.
- The height of the second level must be made such that a hand passes into the niche for illumination. The diffused light source is unlikely to last forever.
- The place where the central chandelier will be mounted should be reinforced with additional inserts and straight hangers.
- In order not to get confused in lines and sizes, it is better to draw schemes separately for each level, and separately for lighting.
- Finally, the diagrams of each layer of the plasterboard ceiling with illumination around the perimeter must be drawn after the method of mounting the frame has been chosen. More on this below.
Two ways to assemble two levels of the ceiling frame. Which to choose?
The frame for the ceiling is a cellular structure assembled from a metal profile. For convenience, the old ceiling is drawn into rectangles 60x50 cm in size. The centers of the ceiling profile - longitudinal and transverse - should pass along these lines. The first one is load-bearing and is fixed to the ceiling using straight hangers. The second one consists of segments connecting the longitudinal profile at an angle of 90 °. For reliable fastening of intersections of longitudinal and transverse ceiling profiles, a special single-level connector - crab has been developed.
The result is a skeleton for a single-level ceiling. In our case, such a structure will be at the frame of the first level.
A two-level backlit plasterboard ceiling base can be assembled in two ways. The first one is good for beginners and inexperienced ones: each layer of the ceiling is assembled separately - first the highest, the first; then lower, second. This method is used when the backlit plasterboard box has no radii or waves. But a niche for curtains will not cause many problems.
In the case of the ceiling in the photo, you will have to use a different method. First, the second level is mounted, including the curved parts of the frame, and then the middle is sewn up with profiles. It's time to start drawing up diagrams and calculating the required amount of materials.
We collect the frame of the future ceiling. Tools and materials
The diagram below clearly shows the entire structure of the future ceiling. It remains to consider its phased installation.
Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting should be started from the second level. Along the perimeter of the walls we beat off the border of the future second layer, retreating from the border of the old ceiling at least 15 cm (5 cm for the 1st layer, 5 cm for the backlight niche screen and 5 cm of space above the screen for the formation of a luminous flux and for replacing burnt-out backlight elements) … For this purpose, a laser level and a painting dye line (bounce) are usually used. In general, the laser level is a universal device and must be used at all stages of horizon and vertical control. The guide ceiling profile is attached to the wall with a dowel-nails so that the border line is slightly lower. Holes in the wall are usually made with a hammer drill equipped with a concrete drill.
The border of the second level is transferred to the old ceiling, 7 - 10 cm recede from it (the width of the niche for illumination) and another line is drawn. Along it, the PNP is fixed to the old ceiling (see diagram above). To create curved sections, 2 of the three sides of the guide profile are cut with scissors for metal or with a grinder.
The distance between the cuts is 5 cm, in this case the line will turn out to be smoother. It is advisable to fix the profile at the bend as often as possible. The PNP is attached to the ceiling with anchor wedges. It is possible to use dowel-nails, but they will need 2 times more to guarantee the strength of the fastening.
In the guide profile attached to the ceiling, we insert 15 cm long segments (the height of the second level) from PP. They will replace the straight hanger commonly used for this purpose. The distance between their centers is 10 - 15 cm. The segments are fixed in the PNP with sharp self-tapping screws PSh (press washer) using a screwdriver. From below, these segments are closed by a second guide profile, which is naturally cut in the radius part.
Many people advise using a self-tapping screw for metal, equipped with a drill. This is undesirable. When you drill thin metal with such a drill, the profile may deform. This is unacceptable for our design.
In the horizontal plane, the PNP on the wall is connected to the PNP of the level boundary by segments of the ceiling profile. Their length is equal to the planned width of the second level. At the junction, the side walls of the ceiling profile are cut and bent at right angles. The petals obtained in this way are fixed to the PNP level boundary with self-tapping screws. The distance between the centers of the segments is 50 cm. Additional segments are placed on the radii to reinforce the frame.
So, the box on the plasterboard ceiling with lighting is assembled. We proceed to assembling the skeleton of the first level of the future ceiling. It will be rectangular cells of their ceiling profile, the distance between the centers of which is 60x50 cm. This structure should ultimately look like the photo below.
At this stage, it is necessary to start the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting at this stage with the installation of PNP along the perimeter of the second level frame. In this case, the guide profile is attached to the vertical sections of the PP. Then, using wedge anchors, we fix straight suspensions to the ceiling on the lines corresponding to the centers of the longitudinal ceiling profiles. This was covered in the previous chapter. The ends of the suspensions are bent down, and the longitudinal PP is fixed between them.
The installation of each PCB is controlled by a laser to obtain a perfect horizontal surface. The ends of the suspensions sticking out below the profiles are bent up or cut off.
Crabs are put on top of the longitudinal profile at a distance of 50 cm. Insert sections of the transverse profile into the side clamps of the crabs. Then the crab ears are bent down and fixed with self-tapping screws through the holes provided for this.
The first level is assembled. Do not forget to reinforce the mounting space for the main light if necessary.
Before you start sheathing the frame with drywall, you need to do the wiring.
It is recommended to enclose electrical wires in a corrugation, which protects them from mechanical damage and, as a result, a possible short circuit. However, the final decision on its use is made by each person independently.
Plasterboard installation: easy and difficult at the same time
There are several types of drywall. For the ceiling, a sheet with a thickness of 9.5 mm is usually taken, it is thinner and, accordingly, lighter than the wall. To create a curved surface, an arched gypsum board of 6.5 mm is produced.
GKL is attached to the frame with black sharp screws 40 mm long. Here you need to know a few basic rules:
- The edges of the gypsum sheet should always be centered on the profile. In this case, the attachment of the gypsum board to the profile will be quite strong and reliable.
- At the joints of the sheets, a gap of 2-3 mm should be left to compensate for the movement of drywall under the influence of various factors.
- The self-tapping caps are recessed into the surface of the sheet by 1-2 mm. To comply with this rule, special delimited bits are issued.
- The screws are screwed in at regular intervals. Leave 2 cm to the edge of the sheet.
- The sheet is fixed to the profiles over the entire area, for this, the centers of the profiles are marked with risks on the drywall. The distance between the screws is 15 - 20 cm.
First, we sew the first, highest level of the ceiling. Then the turn comes from level to level. Straight sections will not cause complications. But with radius will have to tinker a little.
The most common way to curl a drywall strip is to wet it. This is how it is done. A construction knife pierces the cardboard on one side. Then the surface is wetted with water. Wait 10 minutes. The gypsum gets wet, softens and it can be gently bent in stages to the desired radius. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the strip will dry out and retain its shape.
The turn of the second level comes. Here, the wavy surface is carefully cut with a knife, and then cleaned with fine sandpaper or a paint net. Holes for spotlights are easiest to drill with a drill and bit for drilling large holes in wood.
The last step will be finishing the ceiling. For these works you need to have on hand:
- paint brushes and rollers;
- tray under the roller;
- several spatulas of different lengths;
- drill with mixer attachment;
- plastic dishes for the preparation of solutions.
First, the drywall is primed with a deep penetrating acrylic primer with antifungal additives. Wait until the primer is completely dry. Then the seams between the sheets and the heads of the screws are putty with special gypsum mixtures. As a reinforcement, the joints are sealed with a reinforcing tape (serpyanka).
Lastly, the entire surface of the ceiling is tightened with the finishing putty. The backlit plasterboard niche for the cornice and the transition from level to level are finished first. The layer thickness should not exceed 2-3 mm. All roughness after drying the layer is rubbed with sandpaper.
Do not forget to vacuum the ceiling, a thin layer of gypsum dust that has settled on the surface after such processing can nullify all previous work.
Before finishing the ceiling - painting or wallpapering - it is advisable to prime the surface again.
Spotlights and neon - choose lighting options
The choice of ceiling lamps is so wide and varied that it is difficult to advise anything in this direction. Most often they use LED lamps built into the plasterboard ceiling, as well as halogen lamps. They are able not only to illuminate a certain area of the room, but also to create light beams of various configurations on the ceiling; there are lamps that combine two types of lighting - halogen and LED (pictured):
Another feature of such lamps is the ability to adjust the intensity of the glow. Some types of LEDs are equipped with a control panel, which will allow the use of various lighting scenarios for the room. Such luminaires are equipped with appropriate control units.
The housings of the spotlights are equipped with retaining springs and their installation in the ceiling openings will not be a problem. As well as their replacement in case of failure.
Conventional incandescent lamps are mounted less and less due to their large dimensions and temperature rise during long-term use.
With regard to backlighting between levels, flexible neon and LED strip have been the most popular lately. Despite the difference in name, these backlights are based on the same element - an LED.
Whatever hidden plasterboard ceiling lighting is used, the choice depends only on your taste and the skill of the manager selling you his products.
As you can see, a two-level backlit plasterboard ceiling is quite difficult to design. But the enthusiastic responses of friends and guests will be a well-deserved reward for all the difficulties you endured.
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