
2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54
- Determining the type of fastening
- Prepared wall using embedded
- Fastening a stretch ceiling to a plasterboard wall without mortgages
- Using dowels
- Threaded screw dowels
- MOLA metal anchor fasteners
- Other options
Very often, a problem arises when installing a stretch ceiling, that at least one wall in the apartment was built from gypsum plasterboard. This raises the question of how to fix stretch ceilings to a plasterboard wall. There are both special fasteners and simple solutions to fix the baguette, in any case there are solutions.
Determining the type of fastening
Before you start attaching the canvas, you need to decide on the level of finding its surface. The accepted minimum distance of the ceiling from the ceiling is 35 millimeters, but the height of the room is really taken into account (it may be necessary to lower the canvas lower) and what kind of lighting will be installed. If spotlights are installed, then the minimum distance is supplemented by the height of the lamp itself plus 15 technical millimeters.

Installation of a stretch ceiling on plasterboard walls can be done in three ways:
- Fastening with a harpoon method.
- Harpoonless fastening.
- Cam mounting.
For the installation of a fabric cloth, a much higher tension is required, therefore, all the methods described in this section are recommended to be used exclusively for installing vinyl stretch ceilings. I also want to draw your attention to the fact that for the normal fastening of the bearing profile, the thickness of the drywall sheets on all walls must be at least 12.5 mm.
Prepared wall using embedded
Standard fastening such as a dowel and a self-tapping screw, it will not work here, they do not hold in plaster and will simply pull out. It is necessary to strengthen the places where the mounting plate will be fastened with embedded profiles. They will provide a secure fit. If the mortgages are not installed, then, when tensioned, the canvas can pull out the supporting fasteners.
Usually, embeds are made from the same profile on which the gypsum sheet is attached. But, if there are none, or you need to strongly strengthen the installation site, you can use a wooden block of a suitable size.

For the installation of stretch ceilings in a small living room, embedments can be made from a galvanized metal profile for drywall. In rooms with a large area, for these purposes it is better to use wooden blocks with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm. The height of the fixing beam must be calculated in such a way that its lower edge is located at the same level with the front plane of the future tensioning fabric.
If you use horizontal lintels made of a metal profile as a mortgage structure, then each such lintel must be fixed in two places to each vertical rack-mount profile.
When installing the embedded wooden beam, I advise you to additionally fasten each lintel to the main wall, at least in two places, using nylon expanding dowels and plumbing bolts with wide washers.
When the embedded ceilings for the stretch ceiling are installed around the entire perimeter of the walls, it will be possible to start plastering the frame with plasterboard and finishing the room;
After finishing the finishing work, at a given level, it will be necessary to mount the bearing profiles (baguette), and fix the stretch ceiling panel to them. For fixing the profile, it is best to choose self-tapping screws for wood or metal with a size of 6x60 mm.
The use of mortgages is very helpful when installing curtain rods for curtains, chandeliers and lamps.
Sometimes a wider profile is used for installation than the standard profile, which is installed even during the assembly of the battens under the gypsum sheet.
Fastening a stretch ceiling to a plasterboard wall without mortgages
First of all, you need to check how reliably and efficiently the drywall is mounted on the main wall, especially in its upper part, along the entire perimeter of the room.
At the same time, attention should be paid not only to the fastening of the drywall sheets, but also to the assembly quality of the supporting frame. When examining the surface, there should be no deflection, rattling, play, cracking or delamination of the drywall wall.
For the installation of a fabric cloth, a much higher tension is required, therefore, all the methods described in this section are recommended to be used exclusively for installing vinyl stretch ceilings. I also want to draw your attention to the fact that for the normal fastening of the bearing profile, the thickness of the drywall sheets on all walls must be at least 12.5 mm. Naturally, it is very important to find a bearing profile in the wall and fix to it.
You can use a portable metal detector or a powerful neodymium magnet to pinpoint the exact location of the uprights behind drywall panels.

A simple option is to attach a stretch ceiling baguette to drywall at an angle. Pre-drilling a hole for self-tapping screws.
If the baguette is PVC, then the usual 41 self-tapping screws on wood I work, I twist them through the starting baguette at an angle of 45% crosswise with a step of 5 cm. 1-45 to the left … 5 cm … 1 - 45 to the right … Keeps even 25% shrinkage without dowels, drilling, holes and straight into drywall.
We fix it either with a Christmas tree or with a 5mm drill, then a 6mm chop size, and a 32-35 self-tapping screw, between them at an angle of 45-55mm, never pulled out. And so if the breakthrough of water, then the gypsum gets wet and nothing will help there, except for window anchors into the wall (this was practiced).

Screw the wood screws crosswise. Those. screw one self-tapping screw at an angle of 45 degrees, and the second self-tapping screw close to it, also 45 degrees, only in the other direction. And it is necessary to screw it into an undrilled baguette. Keeps tight. You drill the front wall with a drill. Through this hole you screw two screws crosswise.
A small self-tapping screw, just twisted exactly into the gypsum, will not hold. More than once I had to see and redo the ceilings, where everything seems to be normal at first, and after a while, gaps appear between the wall and the masking tape, through which you can climb between the two ceilings and use the second one as a hammock. The ideal option is a mortgage from a bar, holds dead, but in 98% of cases they are not. Then comes the butterfly dowel, also strong, but expensive. And nobody wants to pay for it. Then I just drill holes with a pen in gkl and hammer in an ordinary dowel, but not completely and the 35th self-tapping screw for wood, a step of 4-5 cm. It turns out even very strong.
I twisted the screws "herringbone" every 5-7 cm at an angle. I don't see any problems, there are problematic places, but like brick-built, I put a spacer and I'm happy.
In general, screw the main feature at an angle and do not overtighten!
Using dowels
There are different types of drywall mounts, consider the most popular which will be used. The only thing is that the cost bites with a large volume, but if the owner is willing to pay extra, then there is no problem.
If the fixing strip is installed on drywall and you cannot determine exactly where the metal profiles are, in order to screw the screws into them, use moths for wall or ceiling drywall.

The disadvantage is to use fasteners for drywall type "butterfly". Such fasteners will not provide a snug fit for the mounting plate and will cause gaps to appear later. But as an option, we attach it to the drywall using a butterfly dowel, as in the photo. If the profile is after 40 cm, then we insert two of these dowels between them (one, in my opinion, will not be enough). It seems to be easier than dowels in concrete, but also long.
We do this: first we apply a profile and mark the places for the holes. We drill with a 4 mm drill. Then we attach the profile, fasten it in 2-3 places to the profile, go through all the holes where the dowels will be with a 4 mm drill. We remove the profile, we pass the holes in the drywall with a 10 mm drill, insert the dowels into them and again finally fasten the profile.
Threaded screw dowels
Dowels-nails, as they are called, consist of a spacer dowel and a nail directly with a screw thread. They are often used for hollow ceiling structures.
Dowel-nails for drywall should screw in well, but not scroll, so compare the size and complexity of the work, and there are incidents when attaching the stretch ceiling to the drywall.


MOLA metal anchor fasteners
As an example, I can offer MOLA 5x13 metal expansion anchors with profile fastening with M5 screws, or OLA 8x13 plastic expansion anchors with profile fastening using 3.5x60 mm self-tapping screws. Such fasteners are designed for single-layer plasterboard sheets 12.5 mm thick;

When installing the supporting profile, I advise you to install expanding anchors in drywall, as often as possible, at a distance of at least 100 mm from each other. To increase the reliability of the fastening, you need to try to make sure that the anchors catch on to each vertical post profile of the supporting frame.
Other options
As an alternative option for installing stretch ceilings in rooms with plasterboard walls, I can suggest, instead of wall profiles, use the ceiling view of the bearing profile. They have the same design of the clamping mechanism, however, they differ in that they are not mounted to the walls around the perimeter of the room, but directly to the main floor.

Using bars for reinforcement. Allows you to stiffen the structure and strengthen the ceiling.


In conclusion, I will say that in each case it is necessary to assess the condition of the wall, it is even possible to install anchors, corners, mortgages. This will allow you to securely fasten the stretch ceiling baguette to the drywall.

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