2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54
- Drywall (hl)
- What profile for a plasterboard ceiling is needed
- Phased work with the ceiling
- Preparatory work
- Drawing. Taking measurements
- Surface marking
- Lighting markup
- Installation of a single-level ceiling frame
- First step. Installation of the guide ceiling profile on the ceiling for plasterboard
- Step two. Fastening suspensions.
- Step three. How to attach a plasterboard ceiling profile to the ceiling
- Fourth step. Jumpers
- Electrical wiring
- Fifth step. Installation of plasterboard sheets
- Last step. Finishing
To create a plasterboard ceiling in a room, you need to make a metal frame. This article describes the detailed steps of how to make a frame from a drywall profile for a ceiling. Work requires accuracy and precision. The algorithm of actions should be performed in stages to obtain a solid frame base and a beautiful plasterboard ceiling.
Each stage of the work performed on the installation of the frame includes a number of rules, and also has the nuances of the work.
To create a metal frame for a plasterboard single-level ceiling, you will need a set of tools, without which work will be impossible or difficult.
You will need the following:
The tools must be clean and serviceable. All measuring instruments, chopping cord in proper form.
It is very important to purchase materials from well-known manufacturers, for example, Knauf. The difference from other firms is the quality of the products. To create a strong, rigid frame, you should buy everything from one company with quality certificates checking, since there are often fakes.
Depending on the room, its humidity, temperature conditions, the type of drywall is selected. There are 3 types on the construction market:
- An ordinary drywall sheet is indicated by gypsum plasterboard, gray - used in dry rooms, without sudden changes in temperature.
- Moisture-resistant material is designated GVL - applicable on the balcony, attic bleaching, in the bathroom, in the kitchen and other wet areas.
- Refractory sheet GKLO or GKVLO - applicable in places of fire hazard. It is pink (reddish) in color. Does not burn.
Each sheet has its own dimensions: length 2.5 meters and more, width 1.2 meters, thickness from 9.5 to 12.5 cm.
What profile for a plasterboard ceiling is needed
To create a metal frame for a single-level ceiling, you will need profiles:
- Ceiling guide profile PNP (UD). It has dimensions: thickness 0.4-0.6 mm., Width 28 mm., Height - 27 mm., Length - 3 meters.
- Ceiling profile PP (CD) - dimensions: thickness is 0.4-0.6 mm., Width - 60 mm., Height 27 mm., Length 3 meters.
Profiles for plasterboard ceilings must be of high quality, bending strength. Profiles from Knauf differ in metal thickness (0.6mm) and are considered the best on the market. Other manufacturers save money and make the profile from a thinner metal (0.4mm), which makes the structure softer. The strength and durability of the ceiling produced depends on this.
To achieve uniform strength and rigidity of the frame, use extension cords if the wall length exceeds the length of the ceiling profile. For PNP (CD) 60 * 27, a special insert is used, ideal for extension. It strengthens the joint border, making it strong.
A single-level connector is used to connect the PP (CD) and the PP jumper. Here, too, it is important to pay attention to the thickness of the metal so that the selected material is not soft.
A crab is used to connect the profiles with a cross in one plane. They are also different, it is better to choose a thickness of 0.6 mm. This connection has a quick fastening latch. For strength, it is fixed with self-tapping screws for metal.
Materials will also require:
Materials are purchased based on the measurements taken for the drawing. In order not to be mistaken in the quantity, you should use the online calculator.
When purchasing all materials, a purchase of 10% more than the received amount is required.
Phased work with the ceiling
The entire production process of a plasterboard single-level ceiling is divided into stages. The strength of a plasterboard single-level ceiling depends on each action performed.
For the installation of the plasterboard ceiling frame, you should first of all prepare the room and the surface. Furniture is taken out of the room, and interior items that interfere with the installation process are removed. After that, you should bring drywall sheets into the room to adapt the environment - temperature, humidity.
In order to prepare the surface, the rough ceiling should be brought into proper form:
The surface is examined for cracks, holes, sagging plaster. Old plaster, which is crumbling, is removed (over time, it can fall on the drywall and thereby create excess weight of the drywall structure). It is advisable to patch up all holes.
- If there are traces of tsvili on the ceiling, then the room is treated with drugs and dried.
Preparatory work should be carried out without fail, since the fungus easily passes to the gypsum plasterboard, the fallen off plaster will burden the plasterboard structure, which threatens with deformation and cracks.
Drawing. Taking measurements
After the preparatory work carried out, you should take a sheet of paper, or even better 2. On the sheet, the first thing to do is draw the surface of the ceiling with protruding corners (if any). Next, the perimeter of the ceiling is measured with a meter, a tape measure. The data obtained for each wall is recorded in the drawing.
You should not neglect millimeters, do rounding. In the process of installing a metal frame, this plays a role. The size must be recorded accurately, for example, 2.156 meters.
Next, you need to measure the height of each corner of the room. You need to find the lowest position of the rough ceiling. A low point is marked on the drawing. After that, the markings are marked on paper, along which the profiles will be mounted.
There are 2 types of frames for a single-level ceiling. In the first type, ceiling profiles are mounted - a transverse frame. The second type includes jumpers - a cellular metal base.
The transverse frame assumes the installation of the ceiling profile PP (CD) every 40 cm. In this case, jumpers, and crabs are not needed. In this case, drywall is applied perpendicular to the ceiling profile.
The honeycomb frame is a metal lathing from the cells of the ceiling profile. Here the CD is installed every 60 cm, and the jumpers every 50 cm.
In the drawing, the locations of the ceiling profile are marked, depending on the choice of the type of frame base. And also the places for suspensions should be noted. Basically, they are attached along the PP line at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The suspension should not coincide with the intersection of the lintel and the profile. There will be a connector crab.
The drawing should accurately display the boundaries of the joints of the GKL sheet. From this it will be seen in more detail what distance between the suspensions and the lintels, crabs should be kept.
On the second sheet of paper, the electrical wiring for the lighting is drawn. Depending on the selected lighting fixtures, the type of electrical circuit will be selected (parallel, serial connection).
Marking is an important and responsible process. The strength of the structure, a single plane of the ceiling (in two-dimensional space) will depend on this.
The markup begins with strictly horizontal lines along the wall. To do this, take the smallest point from the ceiling (it is marked in the drawing) and mark this point along the entire perimeter. To achieve perfect evenness, a laser level is applied.
If not, then the water level. The perimeter lines are made with upholstery cord. If not, then a pencil and a ruler (meter).
Further, lines, points are applied to the rough surface. The first line on the ceiling from the wall for the ceiling profile is drawn at a distance of 0.25 m. After that, you should retreat 40-60 cm (this depends on the type of frame: for the transverse - 40 cm). And so on to the opposite wall. Places for suspensions are marked on these lines. The distance between the suspensions is 40-60 cm. It depends on the material from which this element is made. If the suspension is thin and soft, then they should be fixed more often.
For a honeycomb frame, markings should be made for lintels. Since the ceiling profile is located at a distance of 60 cm from each other, then the jumpers are placed at the same distance from each other. 25cm recedes from the wall.
There is one nuance here - the suspensions should not fall into the crab attachment point (the connection of the profiles is cruciform).
When making markings for profiles, you should immediately indicate the location of the lighting fixtures. This is required so that the wiring and fixtures do not touch the metal profiles, in order to avoid, in the future, the closure of the electrical network.
Ceiling markings are essential. In the process of drawing lines, every detail is important. In this case, the drawing should be at hand in order to know the measurements (steps) between profiles, suspensions.
Installation of a single-level ceiling frame
To create a frame base for a plasterboard ceiling, you should follow the algorithm of actions. Ideally, fix the hangers first, and then the guide profiles.
First step. Installation of the guide ceiling profile on the ceiling for plasterboard
The first step is to attach the ceiling guide profile (UD). For this, a tape is glued to the back of the profile from the back side. After that, it begins to be applied to the markup. It is required that the drawn line runs along the edge of the profile (from the outer or inner side - it depends on the height of the frame to be mounted), but not in the middle of the profile. Through the PNP, through holes are made for dowel-nails. The first hole should be 5-10 cm from the edge. Each subsequent dowel will be located at a distance of 25-40 cm. The guide profiles are placed in a "joint" to each other if the length of the room is more than 3 meters. In the corner, the profile is inserted into the fixed one and secured with a dowel-nail.
Step two. Fastening suspensions
The hangers are fastened according to the marking with wedges. This element of the frame takes up most of the load on the entire ceiling. For reliable fixation, it is required to make holes with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 40 mm using the marks on the rough base. further, a suspension is applied to these holes. Dowel-wedges are inserted into the ears of the frame element and hammered.
Step three. How to attach a plasterboard ceiling profile to the ceiling
The ceiling profile PP (CD) for drywall is inserted into the guide from 2 sides, and is fixed with small screws (seeds). Ideally, use a cutter.
The step of the profile for drywall on the ceiling is indicated on the marking of the rough base is 60 cm. Next, you need to pull the thread across the entire formed plane and use it to fix the profile in the suspensions. The edges of the elements are folded in different directions.
In addition to the thread, the rule is used. It will show where the deflection occurred or the profile was pulled high to the rough base.
Fourth step. Jumpers
Jumpers are cut from PP (aka CD) of a profile of such a size that they exactly fit into the marked places. They are fixed to the ceiling profiles with crabs.
The frame is assembled from a profile for plasterboard to the ceiling. The last stage is a control check for the flatness of the created plane, the rigidity of the structure. A rule is best for checking evenness. It checks a single plane in all directions. The rigidity of the structure is checked by "staggering" the elements. All parts of the metal frame must be firmly fixed. So that nothing creaks anywhere, does not stagger.
The wires to be laid must be corrugated. This is necessary in order to avoid contact with the metal elements of the profile. At the place where the lamp is installed, the wire must be left free 15-20 cm. After laying all the wires, insulate the ends of the wires. And you cannot connect the power supply until all installation work is completed.
Fifth step. Installation of plasterboard sheets
Plasterboard sheets begin to stack to the side, based on the type of frame base. The first sheet of drywall is fixed in the corner without cutting. Fastening of drywall to the ceiling is carried out on the profiles with self-tapping screws (the length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the gypsum board). You need to step back 2 cm from the edge of the sheet and screw in the screw with a screwdriver at low speed. The step between the fasteners is up to 15 cm. The self-tapping screw's head is slightly "embedded" in the sheet of material. Do not screw the fastener too deeply. This will damage the GCR.
The sheets must be fixed in a checkerboard pattern so that the horizontal borders do not coincide. In this way, another factor of structural strength is achieved. If necessary, a drywall sheet is cut.
A chamfer is created on the cut face. A self-tapping screw from a homemade chamfer is screwed in 5 cm from the edge. At the installation site of the lamps, a hole with a diameter equal to the lamp (point) is made in advance in the drywall. The frame base is sheathed with plasterboard.
Last step. Finishing
All joints on the plasterboard surface must be covered with reinforcing tape. But, to begin with, the surface is primed. Plasterboard joints are primed especially carefully, without gaps.
Reinforcement is done with a special tape and putty. The same mixture of putty is used to cover all fasteners. After that, a complete filling of the surface is carried out for further finishing.
Installation of a metal frame for a ceiling of the same level made of gypsum board is not difficult. The main factor is the step-by-step instructions that should be followed, as well as familiarize yourself with all the rules and nuances in order to avoid mistakes and deformation of the ceiling structure in the future.
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