Do-it-yourself Plasterboard Suspended Ceiling In An Apartment

2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54

• False ceiling in the apartment
• The sequence of creating a false ceiling
• Necessary materials. Set of tools
• Profile
• Drywall
• Fasteners
• False ceiling drawing
• Preparatory work
• Plasterboard false ceiling markings
• Create a metal frame
• Installation of drywall on the created frame
• How to cut drywall
• Reinforcement of joints and finishing
• False ceiling care rules

Every apartment owner, planning to make repairs, is faced with ceilings. Mostly they have irregularities that are difficult to get rid of. For this, drywall is used. A plasterboard suspended ceiling can be easily assembled with your own hands, while saving not only money. When creating a drywall structure, there is a responsibility and a course of action.

False ceiling in the apartment

There are a lot of suspended ceilings. They can be classic, curly, one level or several. There are also many variations with the combination of false ceiling lighting.

The main systems of plasterboard suspended ceilings:

1. One level is a classic flat ceiling with a chandelier.

   

2. Many levels - curly elements, as well as dividing one room into zones.

   

3. Combined ceiling - basically there is a combination of a plasterboard box with a stretch ceiling.

   

4. Backlighting - plays an important role in the false ceiling. This can be the main light and the night light from the LED strip.

   

To create unique lighting, the luminaires are installed in the correct position, that is, not on the same level, so that the rays intersect the zones in the room.

The sequence of creating a false ceiling

To install a plasterboard suspended ceiling, an algorithm of certain actions is followed:

1. Collection and purchase of materials and tools.

   

2. Sketching on paper.

   

3. Preparatory work for further installation.

   

4. Implementation of the markup on the base surface.

   

5. Installation of the frame from the selected material (metal profiles).

   

6. Plasterboard sheathing. An important stage where some nuances and secrets may arise when working with GVL.

   

7. Reinforcement of joints on the created plasterboard ceiling.

   

8. Finishing work with plasterboard construction.

   

A step-by-step process should be followed to avoid errors that could be irreparable.

Necessary materials. Set of tools

To create a durable, beautiful ceiling, it is necessary to purchase materials from manufacturers who have proven themselves from the best side in terms of the quality of their products. The most popular company is KNAUF.

Profile

To produce a frame for a plasterboard ceiling, you will need to purchase a set of profiles:

The guide is the basis for creating the frame. The ceiling profile is inserted and fixed into the guide profile.

Ceiling profile - creates a sheathing of the frame base for plasterboard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this element. Therefore, when purchasing materials for the frame, you should use only one company with high quality materials.

Drywall

Depending on the room, the brand of drywall is selected. If it is a bathroom, balcony, attic, then moisture-resistant drywall sheets are used. When creating a ceiling in the corridor, living room, bedroom, the usual gray gypsum board is used. If you need to make a false ceiling with your own hands in a room where a fireplace is installed or rough from a stove, then we will use heat-resistant red plasterboard.

A drywall sheet for a suspended ceiling is used with a thickness of 9.5mm, but it is better to use 12.5mm. Ideally, the technology relies on two layers of sheets. The ceiling structure must be securely fixed.

Fasteners

Fasteners for plasterboard false ceilings must comply with quality certificates. If the fasteners are of poor quality, this can lead to the flimsy of the frame. Elements from Knauf have proven themselves well.

And you will also need such materials for a plasterboard suspended ceiling:

1. Direct suspension.
2. Profile connector - crab.
3. Extension cord - in the event that the ceiling has a large square.
4. Dowel 8/10. Anchor bolts for hangers.
5. To connect the frame elements to the base concrete base, screws 4.2 / 51 are required
6. Self-tapping screws for connecting profiles, as well as for drywall with a frame.
7. Primer - for a rough ceiling with an antiseptic, ordinary for drywall.
8. Putty for reinforcing joints.

9. "Finish" plaster putty.

   

10. Reinforcing tape.
11. Damping tape for metal frame elements and for closing corners on a rough ceiling.
12. Mineral wool.

A set of tools, without which the creation of a suspended ceiling from plasterboard is not possible:

1. Ruler, meter, pencil, building level (laser installation).
2. Drill and drill set.
3. Screwdriver or screwdrivers.
4. Construction mixer.

5. Scissors for cutting metal.

   

6. Construction knife and blade set.
7. A set of spatulas.
8. Roller, brush.
9. Sandpaper.

Having collected all the necessary tools, as well as having read the list of materials, you can safely proceed to further actions.

False ceiling drawing

To create a sketch on paper, you will need the dimensions of the room in which you plan to have a plasterboard suspended ceiling. In this project, you need to draw the desired ceiling with all dimensions. Here the markings for the frame are marked, the curly elements of the plasterboard suspended ceiling are drawn. On a separate sheet of paper, an electrical circuit is created for the backlight. Each luminaire is marked with a separate dot. The diagram shows a switch, sockets.

It is imperative to mark the places of fasteners of the frame base. And also in the drawing, the thickness of the drywall sheet should be taken into account.

Do not neglect millimeters, as they can play a great role in the installation of the frame.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, preparatory work is required. Furniture is taken out of the room, which can interfere with the work process. Further, the walls, the ceiling are cleaned of wallpaper, paint and other finishing materials. Dust and cobwebs should be swept off the walls.

If holes appear after removing the paint or wallpaper, then plastering work is carried out and time is given to dry. The cracks widen slightly and are reinforced with a serpyanka tape, which prevents further crack movement.

If mold is found, it is necessary to carry out a number of procedures to dry the place, after which a primer mixture with an antiseptic is required. The solution is applied to the entire rough surface.

The walls near the ceiling must be flat, since the profile guides will be attached to them in the future. If there are depressions or bumps, they get rid of. Everything is brought under the level. A rule can be used to check the surface for evenness.

After the plaster and primer have dried, a damper tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the corner between the wall and the ceiling. It serves as a seal between the wall and metal profiles, and is also a sound insulation material. The tape is glued to the corner with adhesives.

At the preparatory stage of work, you need to decide on the lighting. Purchase the desired lamps. The height of the suspended ceiling depends on their dimensions.

Plasterboard false ceiling markings

Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling is carried out according to the measurements taken according to the markings made on the rough base and walls. For marking, you need to find the lowest corner of the ceiling. From this point, retreat the height of the suspended structure, taking into account the height of the lamps and the thickness of the drywall, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. This line will serve as a guide for the guide profiles. Above the markings, holes for fasteners are made with a drill. The distance is equal to half of the back of the guide profile. The holes should be up to 40cm apart. in the corners and at the edges of the profile 15cm.

The second step is to draw the lines for the ceiling guides directly onto the draft ceiling. A drywall sheet is attached around the perimeter as well as the midline. The standard sheet size is 120 cm, so you need to draw lines every 60 cm. These lines indicate the attachment points of the suspensions.

Now you can mark the lines of the crossbars, which are made from the ceiling profile. Cross lines are laid between the main lines at a distance of 40 cm from each other. This will strengthen the false ceiling structure. The locations of fasteners are also marked on these segments.

Places of future lamps are marked on the marking with crosses (circles). They must be in a certain sequence and lie on the same line.

Council. In order to calculate the exact height of the plasterboard suspended ceiling, you should take the lowest point (corner) from it to retreat to the floor the height of the guide profile, plus the thickness of the plasterboard and plus 8mm. gap.

Create a metal frame

Installation of the frame base of the suspended ceiling for plasterboard begins with the guide profiles. You should be careful and check each fixed element with a level for evenness. So:

1. The guide profile is fixed according to the markings on the walls. Here, dowels are required for fasteners. A sealing tape is glued to the back of the guide profile. The profile should be attached in such a way that its lower part coincides with the line. Dowels are inserted into the pre-made holes, after which the profile is twisted with a self-tapping screw.

   

2. The next step is to mount the hangers. The first row near the wall on the rough ceiling - suspensions are attached at a distance of 25 cm. Each subsequent row - fastening occurs every 50 cm. To fasten the element, you need to glue the seal to get rid of metal contact with the concrete surface. You can attach the tape to the suspension, and then fix it. The suspension is fastened only with anchor bolts. Since the plasterboard ceiling has weight, then it must be rigidly mounted. Self-tapping screws can not withstand the load and jump out of the base.

   

3. Ceiling profiles are inserted into guides, fixed with self-tapping screws, and also fixed to suspensions. Flatness of the plane is very important here. For this, a level is applied, as a rule, you can pull a thread that will define the boundaries of the plane. The protruding ends of the hangers are bent inward so that drywall can be attached.

   

4. Transverse. They should be 40cm in size. from one profile to another. The ceiling profile is cut with metal scissors into the desired pieces. They are also attached to suspensions. Crabs are fixing them with profiles.

   

After creating a solid frame, it should be checked for position in the plane (evenness), as well as for rigidity. If it creaks, staggers, the structure becomes flimsy, then there are weak fixings for the suspended ceiling made of plasterboard and are fixed in order to avoid unsteadiness.

Further, communications, electrical wiring are carried out. For safety, all wires are placed in a special corrugation that does not allow contact with metal. A short circuit may occur when the wire is heated. The wiring is done according to the wiring diagram. In the places where the fixtures are attached, the wire should be exposed outside - 15-20cm

All wires are not connected to the mains until all installation and finishing works are completed.

To prevent a sharp temperature drop (in a private house) or for sound insulation, mineral wool is placed in the finished metal frame.

Installation of drywall on the created frame

In order to start mounting drywall on the frame, drywall sheets are being prepared. To do this, initially before all the work being done, drywall should be brought into the room where the ceiling is created. The material must stay indoors for at least a day. After that, with the help of a neighbor, the finishing of the metal frame begins.

The first step is to look at each sheet for the presence of a chamfer (the corner along the sheet should be beveled at 45 degrees by 5 mm.). If it is not there, you need to make it with a plane. You don't need to do this with a knife - you get uneven edges and damage to the top layer of the cardboard.

First, whole sheets of drywall are attached to the frame with the help of another person. The horizontal lines of the sheets should not coincide, the strength of the structure depends on this. Therefore, one sheet is attached on one side of the frame, and the other on the other side. Thus, a checkerboard structure is created. The drywall sheet is fixed with 35mm self-tapping screws. Fasteners are made from the edge of the sheet by 1 cm to the profile, and a step of 15 cm. Do not tighten the screws too often - this will have a bad effect on the gypsum board. Subsequently, it can burst or deform. On one sheet there should be 3 rows of self-tapping screws and transverse ones.

After all solid sheets are fixed, you can start cutting out the pieces that should close the rest of the frame.

How to cut drywall

The sheet is laid on a flat table. Marking is applied to it with a pencil. Along the line, using a ruler and a sharp knife, an incision is made to half the thickness of the drywall. After that, the notched part should protrude beyond the boundaries of the table. When pressed, the sheet will burst in the area of the cut. The piece needs to be bent, leaving a strip of the cardboard fold on the other side. Now with these 2 pieces, which are on one cardboard, make an even angle of 90 degrees. The knife is placed against the stop of the blade in the corner of the created plasterboard corner and is carefully drawn along the entire fold line. This way the sheet will be cut straight.

On the cut piece of drywall, you need to make a chamfer, and then fix it on the frame.

Self-tapping screws should be pressed a little into drywall (but not hard). Then they will not stick out above the surface and the ceiling will turn out perfectly smooth and beautiful.

Reinforcement of joints and finishing

Reinforcement of joints is an important work that creates the strength of the entire plasterboard structure. The seams must be "sealed". They give the ceiling a lifespan.

To reinforce the joints, they should initially be freed from pebbles and dust with a dry brush. After that, the entire ceiling is vacuum cleaned. Apply a primer coat to the drywall with a roller. All joints are very well coated with a brush and primer.

After the drying time, a solution is prepared from a special putty for reinforcing the joints. And you will also need a reinforcing tape - serpyanka, reinforced paper. A thin layer of putty is applied to the seam (it should be well "trampled" into the seam). A tape is applied on top of the raw mixture. The center of the tape should be aligned with the seam. The edges of the tape are pressed and smoothed. To avoid air bubbles, it is carried out along the top with a medium spatula. The excess solution will be removed, and the tape will "drown" a little in the putty. After a short drying time, another layer of putty is applied to the joint and leveled well. And also this solution closes all drywall fixing points.

After the solution has dried, grouting is done with sandpaper. All unnecessary protruding elements are removed.

After the end of the reinforcement, finishing puttying follows. For this, a gypsum-based solution is used. It should be applied in a thin layer, observing the evenness of the surface. It is unacceptable in one place the clearance of drywall, and in the other a bump from the solution.

After the mixture has dried, the entire surface is grinded with sandpaper. If necessary (many drywall gaps), the gypsum solution is reapplied to the ceiling.

After grouting, all dust is removed. The result is a durable and perfectly flat suspended ceiling. For further finishing (wallpapering, painting, applying decorative tape), it is tedious to cover the entire ceiling with a primer. In the corners where the roller is missing, a brush is used.

Holes for sockets and lamps are made using a special drill bit. They have different sizes, so you should be very careful about this. If the hole is larger than the luminaire, it will create a difficult problem.

False ceiling care rules

For a long service life of a suspended ceiling, you should adhere to some rules:

1. Drywall does not "like" sudden changes in temperature and high humidity. Gaining moisture into itself, and then giving it away, the ceiling will begin to deform, cracks will go. Therefore, the best option would be the optimal percentage of humidity in the room up to 75. The temperature regime should change gradually.
2. To keep the ceiling clean, clean it with a dry soft microfiber. If there are stains, the cloth can be dampened, but squeeze well, then gently wipe off the stain. Drywall is destroyed by alkali. Abrasion and the possibility of wet cleaning depend on the quality of the ceiling paint.
3. Do not rub on the ceiling with the back of the sponge (hard) or with other abrasive objects.

The suspended ceiling makes the room cleaner, neater and brighter. With properly designed lighting and main light, the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the overall design of the room, without violating, but creating harmony of peace and comfort in it.

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