How To Choose A Warm Film Floor And Do It Yourself

2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54

• Pros and cons of film warm floor
• What type of floor to choose
• The procedure for installing the film floor
• Technical characteristics of infrared underfloor heating
• How much is it

Manufacturers of modern heating radiators never tire of praising the quality and efficiency of their products. In fairness, we note that there is indeed progress in this area, but practical tests show that these heating systems by themselves with film infrared floors are not yet able to cope with heating in winter. Rationalization of heating a residential apartment requires the implementation of integrated solutions, this is the only way to create a truly comfortable microclimate. One of the options for solving the problem is a film floor heating system, the principle of which is based on the use of infrared waves.

Pros and cons of film warm floor

The main operational advantages of these systems are:

• An infrared wave with a length of 5-25 microns heats only the surfaces through which it passes, but does not heat (and therefore does not dry), unlike radiators and floor electric heaters, the air itself. This allows you to maintain optimal microclimate performance without using humidifiers;
• heating the entire floor surface at once ensures uniform temperature throughout the room and the absence of hot and cold zones;
• systems are characterized by low inertia and fast response time - the effect of switching on becomes noticeable after a few minutes;
• the efficiency of even the most modern radiators and floor devices is reduced by convection: it is always warmer near the ceiling, and always cooler at floor level. Systems built directly into the floor do not have this drawback - the floor covering itself acts as a heat source, therefore the temperature is always the same at all levels;
• compactness: the installation of such a system raises the floor by no more than 3 cm (heating mats with heating cables are thicker in themselves, water systems require a concrete screed that hides a few more centimeters);

• economical - in comparison with other built-in systems, the film floor consumes 20% less electricity.

  

The advantages are enough, but it is obvious that infrared film floors would have already ousted all competitors from the market, if they did not have any disadvantages. They have other points:

• ease of installation is a relative term. Silver contacts require care and attention - if installed incorrectly, you will have to replace the contact (and their number in the kit is limited), or even cut the film;
• the film floor can be mounted without a screed, but it is still necessary to level the base of the floor (however, if we are talking about laying under a laminate, this stage would still not be avoided);
• IR waves really do not dry the air, but only when the local heating is turned off, and this, in turn, will entail the need to increase the heating power, which will negate the energy savings. We'll have to find a reasonable balance experimentally;
• restrictions on the choice of furniture: a solid base or too low legs will lead to overheating of the floor, furniture and the film itself, which will reduce its service life.

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What type of floor to choose

The film floor is ideal for medium-sized residential premises (20-40 m ²). But in small rooms (for example, a bathroom), the use of cable systems or heating mats is more rational - they are easier to install. In rooms with an area of more than 50 m ², the film floor may also be insufficiently effective in terms of economy - a film of high power is needed, and it will consume more electricity than a similar water system.

The choice of a specific type of infrared film depends on the flooring and the placement of the system.

Depending on the components used and the structural design, the film is classified into two types: carbon and bimetallic.

In the first case, a carbon fiber made of carbon paste, sometimes with graphite sputtering, is used as a heating element, sealed between two layers of mylar film. In the second, thin plates of aluminum and copper are placed between layers of elastic polyurethane film. Carbon foil has a wider range of applications and can be applied to horizontal surfaces. It can be installed under porcelain stoneware and under tiles.

Bimetallic film shows itself well in combination with soft floor coverings, but it cannot be laid under tiles. In addition, it is somewhat more difficult to install - the lack of grounding makes it necessary to include an RCD in the power circuit. In terms of cost, both options are approximately the same, but only if the carbon fiber in the first type of film does not have graphite sputtering - it increases the service life of the system, but leads to its rise in cost.

The procedure for installing the film floor

The very first stage is the preparation of the base. It should be even, without potholes and bumps, the maximum height difference is 3 millimeters per two meters of floor area. If more, then it is impossible to lay the film, first you need to wipe the grooves and remove the protrusions. If laying is carried out on an old coating without dismantling it, it must be flat, strong and not bend.

If the base meets these requirements, then before starting work, it is advisable to mark it based on the width of the film. It is also advisable to immediately determine the location of the regulator (in most cases it is not included in the delivery set of the system, so its choice is the business of the apartment owner) and the method of its installation. If the wiring is planned to be hidden, then cutting the grooves, drilling the hole for the cable exit and the mounting holes for the regulator itself - all these issues also need to be resolved in advance.

Further, a heat-reflecting layer must be laid on the base. It can be foamed polyethylene or metallized rubber. After that, you can start cutting and laying the film itself. Important nuances: the film can only be cut along the cut lines indicated by the manufacturer, it is laid strictly with the copper bus down. A gap must be provided between adjacent tapes (its value is indicated by the coating manufacturer in the instructions).

After that, clamps are mounted on one end of the web using pliers (it is necessary to ensure a good contact patch between the bus and the clamping plane), into which the conductive cables are then inserted. Open places (the bare section of the wire and the place of its connection with the clamp) are insulated with bitumen insulation (supplied in the kit), it is also necessary to insulate the bare bus at the second end of the strip. Further, a thermal sensor is mounted on the lower side of the film, it is attached with the same bitumen insulation.

The installed contacts and the thermal sensor will lead to the appearance of bumps on the surface of the film, so it is advisable to drown them into the reflective base (just cut out small areas from it). It will not be superfluous to cut grooves under the wires. After the final laying and surface control for the presence of bumps, the wires are reduced to a corrugation, the corrugation is placed in a groove (for outdoor installation - in a box). Now you can connect the wires from the thermal film and the sensor to the thermostat, and the entire system to the mains (do not forget about the RCD when using a bimetallic film).

After making sure that all places are insulated, and the connection of the wires on the side of the film and on the side of the network to the thermostat is carried out in full accordance with the instructions, you can carry out tests. The first start-up is carried out at minimum power. Each individual film sheet is checked. After making sure that everything is working properly, you can turn off the system, install a protective film and start installing the flooring.

Technical characteristics of infrared underfloor heating

The data given below are of an average, overview character. Specific figures must be checked with the seller of the system, but this data is enough to roughly estimate the amount of upcoming costs, plan the layout of the floor and determine the location of the thermostat, and understand whether this system is generally suitable for operation in specific conditions.

When choosing a thermostat for an infrared heated floor, pay attention to the power of the thermostat, usually 2 kW. It is necessary to add the weight of the consumption value and the total value did not exceed the regulator's rating, if it is greater or close to 2 kW, then we recommend choosing 3.5 kW.

Cover width. In most household systems, it is 0.5 meters. There are floors designed for office use, industrial facilities, baths, their width can be 0.6, 0.8, 1 m. The total energy consumption is about the same, but a wider film is more expensive.

Strip length. For different manufacturers, the maximum permissible value of this parameter differs, varies in the range from 6 to 15 meters. If the length of the room is longer, it makes sense to think about a separate connection in halves and the installation of two thermostats.

Power consumption of the infrared film floor. This parameter depends on the settings of the thermostat, so we can only talk about the peak value. It, depending on the type of film and the manufacturer, ranges from 150 to 230 W / m ². Average power consumption at a temperature on the surface of the film 30 ° C (21-24 ° C indoors) - from 25 to 45 W / h. A more detailed calculation of the warm floor with an online calculator.

The manufacturer also indicates the melting point of the film. It ranges from 120 to 220 degrees. From the point of view of the consumer, it is better not to think about this parameter - it is cheaper to carry out the installation correctly once, and in the future to follow the requirements of the operating instructions (recall the low furniture), then the temperature at the surface of the film will not reach this value.

How much is it

The cost of simple carbon and bimetallic systems ranges from 500 to 1200 rubles per 1 sq. M. Floors with carbon elements and graphite spraying are more expensive, the price for them can go up to 1800 rubles. But such systems are more reliable, as evidenced by even the warranty - in the first case it is a maximum of 15 years, in the second at least 20. At the same time, much depends on the manufacturer - for example, Caleo has systems for 2,000+ rubles for 1 m ², and at Rexva you can find quite good samples at 350 rubles per 1 m ^2.

Be careful - some dealers quote prices not for one running meter, but immediately for a roll. The length of the film in a roll is indicated, in this case you need to recalculate the cost per meter manually.

It is also worth adding the cost of a heat-reflecting base (from 60 to 150 rubles per 1 m ², depending on the type) and a thermostat. Here the breakdown is already more solid, it is difficult to talk about some average prices. The simplest mechanical thermostat for a warm floor with several steps - for 1198 rubles, I met in Leroy Merlin. Touch programmable (timer operation, maintaining a certain temperature, and so on) - from 2500 rubles. A good thermostat is the most expensive part of an infrared film heated floor.

The calculation should take into account whether the IR film will work as a single source of heat or in conjunction with other systems. In the first case, you need to cover at least 70% of the floor, in the second, only traditionally cold areas can be covered (far from the batteries, close to the front doors).

The cost of installation work depends on the completeness of the service package (what he needs is determined by the consumer himself). When ordering from third-party organizations, the price directly for laying the film and connecting it to the thermostat ranges from 200 to 400 rubles per meter. All additional work - cutting strobes, installation and connection of the regulator, installation of flooring and skirting boards are paid separately. This is the approximate cost of laying a warm infrared floor.