2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 22:24
- Types of switches
- Dimmers
- Timers
- Remote switches
- Pass-through switches
- Connection diagram of one crossover and two pass-through devices (control from 3 points)
- Installation of two cross and two pass devices (control from four or more positions)
- Indicator switches
- Conditional classification by price groups
- How to install and connect an open wiring switch
- A. Open-wired switches
- How to install and connect a hidden wiring switch
- B. Switches with hidden wiring
- Installing an old type socket
Electric light switches are small devices used on a daily basis in everyday life and in production to control various light sources. Consider what types of switches are.
Types of switches
There are many different types of switches, differing both in appearance and in the degree of protection against moisture and dust. These properties are indicated on the surface of each piece of electrical equipment using 2 numbers and 2 Latin letters IP. For example, for a closed room, switches with a degree of protection IP 20 are suitable, for a shower room - models IP44, for a street - respectively IP65 and subsequent.
Dimmers
Sometimes, instead of a standard rocker switch, a device with a function of smoothly changing the light intensity (dimmer) is used. On its front panel, instead of a key, there is a round knob or 2 touch buttons: "less" and "more". The scope of such a device is limited - it only works in conjunction with an incandescent lamp.
Timers
Timer is a type of electronic device equipped with a built-in time counter that allows automatic lighting control. The reasons for using timers are quite varied: from providing optimal lighting for indoor plants to creating the illusion of the "presence" of the owners of the house in their actual absence, in order to avoid breaking into the apartment by thieves - "burglars".
Remote switches
These are electronic devices that can be controlled from a distance using a special control panel. They are sensitive to any infrared remotes (from TVs, music centers and other equipment). They are used mainly by people with disabilities, which greatly facilitates their life and the life of their loved ones.
Pass-through switches
In order to control electric lighting from two or more points, in large rooms and in the presence of several doorways, cross or pass-through switches are widely used. The diagram below shows one of the options for connecting such switches for a room with two inputs / outputs. Now we look at what the circuit breaker connection diagram looks like.
You can control the lighting from any of them. Pass-through switches do not have keys with a strictly fixed “on-off” position, unlike conventional ones. It can constantly change, which often confuses the user.
Connection diagram of one crossover and two pass-through devices (control from 3 points)
The cross switch (No. 2 in the figure) is a double pass switch. When used simultaneously with a conventional pass-through switch, it becomes possible to control the lighting of a spacious room from three or more points, which is most convenient when there are several inputs and outputs.
Installation of two cross and two pass devices (control from four or more positions)
Indicator switches
Switches equipped with an indicator are relatively convenient in the dark. Thanks to them, users do not have to look for the coveted key in complete darkness. The indicator switch is like a beacon in the night.
Conditional classification by price groups
Electrical outlets and switches can be classified into three price groups.
A. Economy class
This group includes inexpensive domestic devices made for the mass consumer, in the production of which materials of rather dubious quality are used. Chinese-made devices are produced from better quality raw materials and have a more presentable appearance. However, the build quality is not encouraging for both. In conditions of active operation, their service life is short.
B. Sockets and switches of the middle price group
These are more reliable and high-quality products made of better quality materials and using modern technologies. The buyer is attracted by the appearance of the product, but the price is somewhat frightening.
C. High price sockets and switches
Product from the category of "elite". It differs from products of the "middle" class, by and large, only in appearance. Natural leather and precious woods, as well as semi-precious stones are often used as raw materials.
How to install and connect an open wiring switch
A. Open-wired switches
These switches have two components: an internal mechanism and an insulating cover. They are located directly on the wall surface using socket outlets.
The work on the installation of the device begins with the installation of a socket, which is a dielectric pad. Using dowels, screws, screws or self-tapping screws (depending on the type of surface), the platform is rigidly attached to the wall. After that, the switch mechanism is brought directly to the socket through special holes in it. Finally, the ends of the wires are connected to the terminals.
On the insulating cover, the manufacturer of the device has previously thought out and perforated a special hole, a kind of window for entering the wire. The cover, in addition to insulating it giving the circuit breaker also a proper aesthetic appearance, is installed in place and fixed with latches or screws. At the end of the work, the keys (key) are put on.
The entire installation process of the circuit breaker must be carried out under conditions of complete power off!
How to install and connect a hidden wiring switch
B. Switches with hidden wiring
Installation of switches of this type is carried out using socket-outlets that look like shallow glasses (photo).
A recess is made in the wall using a special tool (crown). A simple round hole the size of a socket is cut into the plasterboard wall. The clamps will help to firmly fix the device in the recess. In more detail, everything is described in the article, installation of hidden wiring under plaster, shtrobing and laying the wire.
If the switch is to be placed in a brick, plaster or concrete wall, then a gypsum-based mortar will be needed to secure the device. The socket boxes should "settle" in the wall evenly, without distortions, which will ensure their uninterrupted operation for a long time.
The next stage of work is gouging grooves (grooves) in the surface of the wall, towards the socket. The strobe must be deep enough to mask the supply wire. Laying the wire into the furrow must be done so that at the exit from it the length of the ends of the wire remains at least 10 cm. This is exactly how much will be needed to further connect the cord to the terminals of the switch. One of the ends of the wire is connected to the socket with special screws (if the wall is made of plasterboard), or with the help of metal spacers included in the structure of the mechanism (the only way when installing an old metal socket).
Installing an old type socket
Tighten the screws that straighten the spacers using a screwdriver. When expanded, the switch mechanism is rigidly fixed with spacers. To ensure reliable fastening, the following condition must be met: the front stops of the device must overlap the edges of the socket, i.e. be slightly wider than them. At the end of the work, a cover is placed on top and keys are installed. Installation is over.
