Independent Execution Of The Self-leveling Floor According To Technology And Rules

2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54

• Types of self-leveling floors
• The best pouring floor
• Tool selection
• Mix composition
• Self-leveling floor options
• Foundation preparation stages
• Features of a wooden base
• Base layer fill
• Finishing layer

It is not difficult to arrange a high-quality and durable floor covering nowadays. This is achieved due to the availability of modern building technologies. The main filling is the self-leveling floor. This is due to its huge number of benefits, as well as its excellent result. In addition, it can be used not only as a finishing coating, but also as a rough version for the subsequent laying of laminate, parquet, tiles. The most important thing is to strictly follow the technology of the device in order to get a quality base.

Types of self-leveling floors

As mentioned above, self-leveling floors can have a rough structure and be a rough version. But there is also a final coating - finishing. It is smooth, lightweight and useful for subsequent painting or decorative application. If, at the same time, they are connected into one whole and performed sequentially, then the floor will be an ideal option. All flaws are eliminated, and beauty is added.

The floors are distinguished by their composition:

1. Plaster.

2. Cement.

   

3. Epoxy.
4. Polyurethane.
5. Methyl methacrylate.
6. Combined.

Each of these options for self-leveling floor has its own qualities that distinguish it from others. Of particular interest is the latter type, which may include components from various mixtures. This is necessary for a specific room, depending on preferences and requirements.

The best pouring floor

There are certain criteria that will help you choose a self-leveling floor. The purpose of the premises where the work will be carried out is very important. When it comes to an apartment or a private house, it is better to choose polyurethane self-leveling floors. They also act as surface leveling, smoothing out all irregularities, as well as for giving the room a designer touch of beauty. This is a kind of decorative coating.

When pouring polymer floors, a minimum amount of knowledge in this direction, as well as physical labor, will be required. Home craftsmen can carry out installation without difficulty. A little more skill will have to be applied when arranging 3d floors, which are distinguished by elegance and attractiveness. If desired, the result will be easy for beginners who are trying and wanting to get such knowledge.

Any final result will depend on the initial work, on the preparatory activities. If someone thinks that all errors in the rough floor can be hidden later, then they are definitely mistaken. On the contrary, they will all come out and be visible to everyone.

In the absence of professional knowledge, it is better to do the work under a specific floor covering in order to hide all possible flaws. Otherwise, in order not to waste your energy and money, you can once ask for help from specialists who will perform all types of work from start to finish.

Decorative floors can be of the following categories:

• Plain;
• With drawing;
• 3d drawing;
• Matte;
• Glossy.

Looking at the reviews, we can draw a certain conclusion that if you pour the floor yourself and at the same time choose a glossy surface, then within a short time, scratches may appear that spoil the appearance. But much will depend on the technology of the work, as well as on the purchased mixture. Even the consistency of the finished solution is different for each manufacturer.

Tool selection

The equipment used in operation will depend on the specific type of self-leveling floor. A larger number will have to be found when installing 3d floors. In general, the standard list, in addition to a

hammer, roller, brush, containers of a certain volume, should include a drill with a nozzle (mixer), special shoes for moving through a wet solution, an aeration roller, a damper tape, a primer, and so on. The specific list will depend on the current situation. The work should be approached individually.

It will not be superfluous to choose a ready-made mixture for its subsequent kneading. The final quality and strength will depend on its quality and brand.

Mix composition

Almost all mixtures include certain components:

1. Placeholders. Frequent materials - sand, lime chips. The fraction will also depend on the composition. If the base layer of the screed is arranged - 1.2 mm, and the topcoat has a fraction of components up to 0.5 mm.

   

2. Supplements. They give the future mortar better fluidity on the base, plasticity, increase the degree of adhesion, which is especially important for concrete floors.
3. Astringents. The main ingredient here is cement. It gives the mixture a gray tint. Plaster of Paris (beige) can also be used. Foreign manufacturers use polymers as a binder.

If there is a desire to get a floor of a certain color, then mixtures with dyes are chosen. Microfibers are used to ensure that all components of the mixture are well connected to each other during hardening. They also help to reduce the occurrence of cracks to zero.

For the subfloor, gypsum-based mixtures are used. The cement base is used in kitchens, toilets and bathrooms. In the latter case, we are talking about high humidity, constant hygienic care, which gypsum almost cannot cope with.

When installing a warm floor, you will need a ready-made solution with increased elasticity. To speed up the work, quick-hardening mixtures are purchased.

Self-leveling floor options

Before pouring the self-leveling floor with your own hands, you should choose its specific option for work. It is about the thickness of the layer that is required in the room. The material and the degree of external influence on it will also play a role.

1. Finishing coat with a small thickness of up to 2-3 mm. The screed can only be performed on a base that fully complies with the technical regulations and has a flat surface. In this case, the solution should adhere very well to the surface on which it is poured. To increase adhesion to the substrate, the latter should be treated with a primer.

   

   Sanding the surface to roughen the surface is also great before priming. These measures will also improve adhesion.

2. Floor cut off from the base with a separating layer. Often used on a wooden base. The same applies to the screed having a thickness of 10-20 mm. It is worth dwelling a little on the separating layer. Here, it is oiled paper, laid under the self-leveling floor with an overlap of sheet on sheet. To prevent the concrete or cement screed from clinging to the finish coating, a waterproofing impregnation is smeared between them. The floor will not deteriorate due to the fact that the wood will "move" over time. At the same time, the cement screed will not take moisture from the self-leveling floor, because of which the latter can collapse and acquire negative qualities (shells). In this way, by the way, 3d floors are made. Banners with pictures, any other picture, sticker act as separators in them.

3. Floating type. It is used when it is necessary to lay flooring (laminate, linoleum, parquet). After all, the specified material can change over time, change its qualities and dimensions from temperature extremes, due to different levels of humidity in the room. The thickness of the floating floor is taken within 25 mm. In this case, the self-leveling floor will harden and not acquire any defects. Polyethylene acts as a separating layer (an alternative is parchment, waterproofing in rolls).

   

But this is not the whole list of schemes according to which you can pour a self-leveling floor. Everything will depend on certain conditions and circumstances under which the installation is performed. But, despite all the variety of options, the principle of the device is the same in each of them.

Foundation preparation stages

Preparation for the subsequent pouring of the self-leveling floor is essential. The quality of the finished version will also depend on the quality of the work. To begin with, it is worth deciding on the base, with its irregularities and problems.

If there are large differences in height or separate protrusions, it is best to remove them with a jackhammer. Otherwise, you will have to spend a lot on the mixture for the solution.

The strength of the screed under the self-leveling floor is checked. Any areas that are flaking and crumbling should be patched and removed. Each such little thing will manifest itself in the future.

All areas of surface deformation are primed and lubricated with a screed mixture. It is enough to buy ready-made versions of it. Drying is very fast. Also, any cracks, chips, where the fill can get, are eliminated.

During the drying process of the finished solution, it can deform due to temperature changes, as well as as a result of slight shrinkage. To avoid this, a damper tape is attached along the perimeter along the wall. It softens any possible deformation. Later, after the self-leveling floor has dried, it is cut off.

The room temperature should be at least 15 degrees. This is the optimum temperature for work. Windows and doors must be closed. Drafts should be especially avoided. Low temperatures promote a slow reaction in the mixed mixture. This should be avoided. The same applies to elevated temperatures.

The moisture content of the base is very important, which should not exceed 4%. When moisture is difficult to deal with, you will have to use a layer or even some waterproofing. To increase the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the concrete screed, use a primer. If this is not done, the self-leveling floor will acquire various defects. The primer is applied with a roller. After that, you should wait a day until it dries completely.

Features of a wooden base

Some are wondering how to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base in a private house. The main thing here is to observe several important aspects, without which a decent result will not work:

• The maximum moisture content of wood is 10%.

• No varnish or paint on the base.

  

  It is removed if present with a grinder or other possible properties. Subsequently, the surface is sanded with sandpaper. This procedure contributes to the appearance of grooves that increase the degree of adhesion of the self-leveling floor.

• After removing dust and dirt, the surface is wiped with a damp cloth.

It should be noted that even specialists will not be able to give one hundred percent guarantee that over time the self-leveling floor will not crack due to changes in the parameters of the wood. There is a risk. In this case, it is better to use not direct contact with the wood, but to use separating layers, choosing the appropriate option from the possible schemes. The thickness of the screed will also play a role.

Base layer fill

It will not be difficult to find out how to pour the self-leveling floor on your own, for people striving for this. All skills can be acquired in a short time and do the work with your own hands, without spending money on specialists.

The very first is the base layer. Using a metal strip, the solution poured on the floor is leveled over the entire area of the room. A special tool here is a squeegee, which has a gap that can be adjusted to the required thickness of the self-leveling floor.

A roller can be used under the battery or in other places where it is difficult to reach.

The bubbles formed during mixing must be removed from the mixture. The aeration roller will help with this. It has special spikes that facilitate quick removal. The length of the spikes will depend on the tie itself.

Since the finished solution must be evenly distributed, you have to move around the room yourself. To do this, you need to buy paint shoes with spikes on the sole. If the room is large in area, then it is better to fill it with several people at the same time and in a checkerboard pattern.

Finishing layer

But how to pour the self-leveling floor after that? It is very important to wait a few days for the base coat to dry completely. Despite the different thicknesses of the base and finish layers, the technologies of their device are completely similar.

After drying and finishing layer, the surface is covered with polyurethane varnish, allowing to maintain shine, but at the same time increase the service life of the finished self-leveling floor. In each case, it is very important to maintain the temperature at a certain level in the room until the surface is completely dry. In this case, no one ever moistens the floor.

The surface of the future floor can be given an anti-slip effect using a very simple method - sprinkle with lightly washed sand. In addition, air bubbles are removed with an aeration roller. All those craters that will appear from getting rid of air and will not allow sliding.

Everyone will be able to understand the technology of self-leveling flooring, regardless of the conditions and the base on which it is poured. At the same time, it is important to plan all actions, to complete the work in one moment, within the specified time.

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