2023 Author: Philip Bishop | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 07:54
- Ways to fix the toilet to the floor
- Fixing with dowels
- How to properly install and fix the toilet
- How to fix a toilet with side holes
- Installation of a toilet bowl on an adhesive base
- Installation with taffeta
Now there are three main ways of fixing the toilet. They differ in fasteners (dowels, glue, screws), as well as in the base or material from which the floor in the bathroom is made. The time that elapses from the moment the work is done to the start of using the toilet will also differ. We will try to consider these ways of attaching the toilet and the nuances that are worth considering.
Ways to fix the toilet to the floor
- Fixing with dowels.
- Installation on an adhesive base.
- Installation with taffeta.
Before buying, you also need to figure out how to secure the toilet to the floor. Let's consider these methods.
Fixing with dowels
This mounting method is the most common. The base for this fastening is a concrete floor. The floor can also be tiled with drillable tiles.
The underlying surface must be flat enough for the toilet to be installed without distortions, and in the future the drain system works normally.
How to properly install and fix the toilet
Before proceeding with the installation, you need to make sure that the link between the toilet bowl and the sewer pipes allows you to mount it in the required place. If a flexible crimp is used, there will be no problem. If a rigid pipe or elbow is used, then you must first put them in the working position, and, if necessary, adjust them to size, cutting off the excess. This adjustment is made with any mounting method.
When buying, make sure that the kit includes bolts for attaching the toilet. Otherwise, you must purchase the kit yourself.
Make sure that the diameter of the dowels and bolts matches the hole in the base of the toilet. The bolts must be fitted with a rubber gasket under its head.
To fix the toilet on the tiled floor, set it in the required position and mark future holes. The toilet bowl is removed, then with a drill in the conventional drilling mode, holes are drilled with the diameter indicated on the dowel, to a depth of at least the length of the dowel.
It is necessary to drill holes in concrete (not in tiles) at a slight angle with the drill going inward, since the shelf on the toilet leg, for which it will be attracted, also has a slight slope.
- Tile drilling. To drill the tile, use drills with special tile solders. Do not use impact drills or hammer drills. After the tile has been drilled, drilling in the concrete can be continued in hammer drill mode with a concrete drill. If the drilling depth is large, allow the drill to cool down.
- Drilling in porcelain stoneware. For drilling porcelain stoneware tiles, use porcelain stoneware crowns. Since small bits do not have a centering drill, a jig is used to hold the bit in place. It is made from a piece of board by drilling holes in it with a corresponding diameter for the crown. The jig is placed over the marked hole, a drill with a crown is inserted and a small recess is drilled. After that, there is no longer a need for a conductor.
- The crown is cooled by pouring a small amount of water directly into the drilled recess and around the future hole.
When the holes are ready, dowels are inserted into them, a toilet bowl is placed on top and bolted to the floor.
Some experts advise using a rubber gasket between the tile and the toilet. It will serve as a kind of damper, which will ensure a more uniform fit of the toilet bowl to the tiles and close possible gaps. This gasket must be cut exactly to the shape of the mounting surface.
A clear sealant can also be used to seal gaps. It is preliminarily applied to the lower part of the toilet, or they are passed along the bypass after installation.
To avoid damaging the ceramic coating on the toilet, a rubber gasket with a diameter of at least the head must be placed under the head of the bolt. Also, the bolt should be screwed tightly, but without undue effort. This is a ceramic, not a metal, it is fragile.
Now it remains (if necessary) to ensure the tightness of the drainage element at the junction with the toilet bowl and the receiving sewer pipe with crimp rings, connect the water supply, set up the drain and the product can be used.
How to fix a toilet with side holes
This is a variation on the first method. However, the side fixing of the toilet to the floor is different. The mounts themselves will be located inside the toilet seat installation leg. For them, holes are also marked on the floor, and fasteners are first screwed on. Then a toilet bowl is installed on top of them and is fixed to the mounts through the side holes. This type of attachment is a little more complicated, but it has a more aesthetic appearance.
If the toilet bowl is installed before laying the tiles (which is undesirable), then it is necessary to provide a substrate on which it will be raised to the future floor level. Subsequently, this will facilitate maintenance and replacement of the toilet without damaging the floor covering.
Installation of a toilet bowl on an adhesive base
When it is unacceptable to drill the floor at the installation site of the toilet, then the only way of fastening will be installation on an adhesive basis. If you were thinking about how to fix the toilet so that it does not wobble, then this method will probably be the most suitable.
Start by cleaning the floor and base of the toilet bowl from dust, dirt, grease and other substances that prevent adhesion. After that, the toilet is installed in its future place and its shape is outlined with a marker.
The tile in the place of gluing must first be processed with coarse sandpaper or another tool to make the surface rough. This will significantly increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the adhesive to the tile.
After that, dust is removed from the surfaces to be glued, and they are degreased with solvent or acetone. A layer of special epoxy-based glue is applied along the line outlined on the floor. The thickness of the glue must be at least four millimeters. In order not to bother yourself with cooking, it will be much easier to buy it cooked.
On top of the applied glue, carefully install the toilet bowl, aligning the outlet of the toilet bowl with the sewer pipe. We press down the toilet, leveling the seating surface.
Now it must be left alone for at least 12 hours before the glue hardens. At this time, it is advisable not to even touch it. After hardening, the necessary connections are made.
The toilet is ready to use.
Installation with taffeta
If your bathroom has wooden floors and the planks are thin, you need to think about how to secure the toilet to prevent it swaying.
Methods of fixing the toilet with taffeta are designed to solve this problem. These methods provide for the creation in the floor of a certain void in the shape of the mounting surface of the toilet bowl with a depression of 5 to 7 centimeters. It will be filled with cement mortar to a depth from the floor minus the thickness of the taffeta.
Taffeta is made from hardwood (oak, acacia). A board with a thickness of 28 - 32 millimeters is taken, a shape is cut out of it, corresponding to the shape of the toilet bowl sole. This form must be abundantly processed with linseed oil in order to avoid getting wet and swelling. From the bottom of this form, nails or anchors are stuffed in a checkerboard pattern. They should protrude 2 - 3 centimeters from the board.
We make mortar or concrete mix. Depending on the required thickness of the mortar, its strength should be selected. For a thickness of 3 - 5 centimeters, the proportion of cement grade 400 to sand 1/4 will be sufficient. As the thickness of the mortar increases, its strength should decrease, and the number of nails filled should increase.
If possible, it is better to prepare a concrete mixture on crushed stone of fraction 5 - 10 with volumetric proportions of cement / sand / crushed stone - 1/3/3. The result is sandy concrete, which will not crack with a large layer thickness, but will be mobile enough to bury taffeta in it.
Then the taffeta is immersed in the solution, poured into the recess, and with vibrating movements is lowered to the same level with the floor. In this case, the excess solution should creep to the sides. If this is not possible, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing excess solution. To do this, the recess in the floor should be slightly wider than taffeta, and the mortar should have sufficient plasticity. This is achieved by adding a plasticizer, but not water.
Now you need to let the solution set. Although it is advised to wait 12 hours, it is advisable to increase this time if no reaction accelerators have been added to the solution. Wait at least a day. After all, the time for the complete reaction of cement without additives is 28 days.
After the mortar has set, you can install the toilet. It is secured with long screws of the appropriate diameter. Do not forget to put rubber pads under the screw heads.
It is advisable to pre-lubricate the screws with graphite grease or grease so that they can be easily unscrewed if necessary.
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